points of departure

Category: Mexico

The problem with Mole

Octavio Paz, one time ambassador of Mexico to India, famously professed puzzlement over the suddenly familiar taste of ‘curry’. It reminded him of the mexican dish, Mole. He asked, ‘Is Mole an ingenious Mexican version of curry, or is curry a Hindu adaptation of a Mexican sauce?” This issue of gastronomic convergence was the theme of this excellent article in Saudi Aramco World, a magazine dedicated to the diffusion of muslim knowledge and achievements all over the world. It’s a great article and explores the invisible connections between India and Mexico, across time and space.

Mole comes in many varieties, but it usually contains ingredients such as cinnamon, cloves, peppercorns, anise, coriander, chocolate, chiles, almonds, pumpkin seeds, raisins, bread and tortillas—all ground together and cooked in a light broth to make a harmonious brown sauce that is served with turkey, chicken or vegetable dishes.

So when Mexicans first try Indian food, especially the watery, sauce rich curries of north India, they are drawn irresistibly to the comparison with Mole. This is just like mole, they tell me, especially for dishes that are agri-dulce, i.e. sweet-sour, or tangy. Consequently when I first tried mole, D was sure I would like it, since it triggered the same taste section as Indian food for Mexicans. However, while I liked the flavor of Mole, it was way too strong for me. It was like my tongue got overpowered with tastes and flavors, such that the entire mouthful was almost unpleasant. I found with experience that I could manage small bits of mole as accompaniment to the rice or tortilla, but not like the Mexicans eat mole here, whole tortillas bathed in mole – the enmolada- or mole with rice, where the rice is accompanied by a generous helping of mole.

I just assumed that it was a personal quirk, that somehow my tastebuds were highly sensitive to the particular flavours of mole. But not a single Indian I know who has tried mole has really immediately liked it. All the Mexicans here were amazed. How can a dish that is so associated with Indian cooking like flavours can be met with such universal rejection by Indians?

I have a hypothesis. Indian cooking in general is very balanced, the proportions are quite regular and strict. This much of this ingredient goes well with that much of this other ingredient. So a dish like mole, which is famous for the number of ingredients that go into it, some familiar like cinnamon and some foreign like chocolate, completely triggers off a warning that the dish is unbalanced, and the tongue reacts to this lack of proportions. Over the period of two years in Mexico, I have grown accustomed to the taste and don’t react in much the same way as I did when I first encountered it, but even now, I would rather eat mole like I would eat pickle, as a small tangy spicy thing to accentuate the flavours than as a main dish.

The Indian grocery store

We stepped up to the armed men guarding the door. The street was deserted, not a single person walking. The doors were huge, almost the entire front of the ground floor. I hesitated, checked the number again, but there was no doubt. This was it. I spoke to one of the guards…is this the place where the…and then blank, the spanish words for grocery shop disappeared from my mind.

Luckily as soon as I said the word for Shop, one of them helpfully filled the blanks, the Indian shop? I said yes. He said, follow me. We walked through the narrow doors into what appeared to be a parking lot. A few cars were parked there, but the vast cavern inside was clearly underutilized. Off to one side, a door. We followed the guard through this door and then the lift. Second floor to the right, he said., and quietly disappeared. We got into the lift and at the second floor, we turned right. A maze of corridors and doors. One door had a framed portrait of an Indian god, but I don’t even remember which one. That was the only sign that behind this door was the only Indian grocery shop in Mexico.

When I first arrived in Mexico, I knew that it was going to be problematic to find indian grocery items. Mexico is not exactly known for its large Indian population. In the past I hadn’t really cared, sine I was quite happy to go with the flow, scrounging around on foreign foods. I didn’t even learn to cook till I reached Australia, and till I had an epiphany. Nobody was going to make me food that I wanted to eat, and thus I started cooking. Really simple stuff, but somehow it’s only the food of your childhood that manages to fill your stomach. Sydney did have a large Indian population, and frequent visits to Parramatta was enough to keep things stocked. So when I left for Mexico, I got a whole bunch of essential spices shipped, and stocked up with visits from my parents and anyone who went anywhere basically. We managed to find ingredients in odd places: ghee from this ultra hippy food place, mustards seeds from the general market (they feed it to birds), tea from an upmarket grocery shop in Mexico city. The first time I went to an Indian artifacts shop in Mexico City I asked the shop keeper where to get foodstuff, and he gave me a number of a wholesale dealer, but I never followed it up, it wasn’t even a real shop.

But then a friend of D’s, who’d been to Bangladesh, and subsequently enamoured of Indian food, passed her an email from another friend with a list of supplies stocked by this grocery shop in Mexico City. I looked at the list and realized that most of my troubles were over. But the shop was hard to find, and it meant a trip of 5 hrs to Mexico City and then some to find the place. We went one weekend and as luck would have it, the shop was closed for vacations. And last weekend, on a whim, we went there again, and finally it was open.

The owner of the shop, who’s been here for close to 20 yrs now, is mostly a clothes dealer, because the entire warehouse was dominated by stacks and stacks of clothes. The grocery section was a small room, with a few shelves packed with lentils and spices and all the familiar accoutrements of indian cooking. We walked in , and immediately started piling stuff on a table to take home, while the assistant looked on bemused at the flurry of activity. I even found ragi flour. In a matter of minutes we were done, with enough supplies to warrant a largish carton and the assistance of one of the workers to carry it down to the car.

I spoke briefly to the owner, and he claims to supply food to the entire Indian community in Mexico. He told me that there were around 5000 people here, but they must be well scattered. I guess I will have to make the inevitable trip to the Indian embassy to find out what they’re up to.
The address for the place is as follows
CALLE FERNANDO DE ALVA IXTLIXOCHTIL 27 INT 201
COL. OBRERA, C.P.06800. DF, MEXICO
TEL: 1325-9843
Above location is one and half block from METRO DOCTORES. Open from 10AM TO 7PM (M-F) Saturday by appointment.

The FrankenMotos of Yucatan

Last year, on a visit to Oaxaca, I had the delightful experience of passing by a row of autorickshaws parked on the way to Monte Alban. Autorickshaws are as much a symbol of urban India as anything else, and being so far from home, it brought a little joy tempered with surrealism to see them stand there so nonchalantly, looking like they belonged. I thought nothing of it then, assuming that they would remain some quirk of Oaxaca. Much later, I ran into a guy who knew the guy who imported those autoricksaws, and the story was simple. Guy goes to India, impressed by the autos and seeing their potential imports a few. I even recognized the autos, they were all made by the company Bajaj, known more in India for their motorbikes and scooters. An old Bajaj ad that used to run on state TV is now part of the cultural consciousness of my generation and others.

There’s a bajaj store in Xalapa, as part of their new strategy to go where no other people are going, especially the Latin American market.

But in the Yucatan, Autos kept popping up everywhere. The yucatan peninsula is as flat as Xalapa is not, and this greatly facilitates the use of two wheelers and autos. Some of these autos were painted in such familiar colours, and combined with the general indianness of the landscape, it was adding extremely odd touches to the already fantastic landscapes. You’ve already got secret sinkholes with mysterious shafts of sunlight, visible and invisible pyramids, the incredible blue of the sea, and hectares of henequen armies. Now add to this the FrankenMoto.

Here’s a operational definition: a frankenmoto is an autorickshaw substitute, where a two wheeler (scooter, motorcycle) has been converted into a three wheeled vehicle by the addition of a cart in order to ferry passengers and goods. Though there were a few autos plying the roads of the Yucatan, they seemed to vastly outnumbered by the franken motos. It is easy to see the evolution of the frankenmotos. They probably started off as additions of carts to bicycles. I saw a variety of these as well. Carts turned into cycle-rickshaws, either to carry goods or with seats and an awning to carry passengers. And then the revolution: convert a scooter or motorbike by affixing a cart in front. These frankenmoto taxis are called mototaxis locally, but not entirely accurately, since Bajaj is now marketing Autos as mototaxis. FrankenMotos fits the bill, since they are usually cannibalized from the body parts of other vehicles. There was a bewildering variety of these vehicles, and it’s not hard to imagine the whole industry operating at the level of the tinkerer. Man buys bike, wants to turn it into a taxi, takes it to a local village mechanic, who then rudely welds a cart to he front, and some cushions and awning, since the heat is a serious consideration in the Yucatan, and he’s done. Bajaj will have to market their autos very cleverly in order to beat the low cost do it yourself approach.

I can’t imagine autos taking off in a place like Xalapa, where the roads are very steep, but on the other hand, the narrow streets and the increasing traffic load of cars (apparently there more cars per person in Xalapa than in any other city in Mexico) could increase their viability. But a flat place like the yucatan is ideal, and the spread of these autos could be a prime example of a different globalization, a ‘third world’ alliance of sorts.


More photos here.

On Fossicking for Books

It was the Alexandria Quartet by Lawrence Durrell that first allowed my latent book collector soul to surface. I had found Justine, half hidden in the stacks of an ancient forgotten library in Bangalore, and recognized the author only as Gerald Durrell’s brother. Having read enough of GD’s early childhood books (a trilogy, if I remember right, starting with My family and other animals, and I’m sure the other two will come back to me, or not, forcing me to check wikipedia), I realized that Lawrence Durrell was none other than the writer brother Larry. But what I read was an entirely different class of literature, and LD enmeshed me into his Alexandrian world.

Of course, in those days, I couldn’t afford to buy new books, even if I could find them, and my only hope was to search for books in the few used bookstores of Bangalore. Over the years, I formed a routine of periodically conducting ‘sweeps’ of the bookstores, and at one point even made a rough guide to the used bookstores of Bangalore. It was a curious routine, no doubt familiar to many aficionados of used book stores, the constant searching seeking for the right title. The element of the hunt. The apt word is fossicking, very common in Aussie slang, meaning to sift through the land for gems. After a while, it became more and more an art to fossick for books, to let your eye glide over the stacks, not even consciously reading the titles, automatically eliding the innumerous copies of romance novels and the thrillers, till, by chance, or by design, a book’s title jumps out of the stack, suddenly snapped into focus and then you reach for it, dreamily, while little waves of satisfaction mounts in your heart. It was a hobby, and a distraction, a few hours of losing myself in the hunt.

It became my mission to find all the four novels of Durrell’s quartet, in the same edition that I’d first encountered them. It wasn’t easy. I found Justine fairly easily, I think it was more popular than the others for some reason, but as time went by I slowly added to the set. Clea and Mountolive came next, while Balthazar proved elusive. I eventually found Balthazar in another edition, and this set off the search all over again. But this time I only found Mountolive. When a friend bought me a new edition of the Quartet, all four in the same volume, so shiny and complete, I was happy, but the thought of the missing volume never really left my mind. And when I did find Balthazar in the old edition, my hopes were dashed to find that the book was so beaten up that a sizeable chunk of the novel had somehow disappeared.

My well worn rounds of the used bookstores came to a halt when I moved to Israel for two years. Not realizing, not really understanding what it meant to be in a country where the main language was not english, I really hadn’t given the book situation any thought till I got there, and found myself anxiously browsing the tiny tiny english sections of even the major bookstores. And since I lived in the middle of the desert, hardly a multicultural hotspot in amenities if not with people, books in English became a luxury. I did manage to find one really good used book store with a pretty large (by Israeli standards) English books section and that kept me going, and the occasional trips to Tel Aviv was a source of much joy. The worst part of leaving Israel was leaving the books behind. I sold most of them back to the same bookstore in Ber Sheva, and they didn’t give me money- they only offered me book credit. So in the end, I exchanged my multisplendoured collection for a single edition of Don Quixote, a book I’d never read. It seemed oddly poetic to replace many novels with arguably the first modern novel. But by and large, till I got back to India and subsequently Australia, times were grim. Australia was a revelation. A huge Borders bookstore at my doorstep, where one could conveniently buy just about anything, if one was willing to pay the steep prices. And it was very weird. Books that I had sought for years, and bought feeling like I’d stumbled across a rare treasure, despite their battered and timeworn looks, were now available to me in fresh first hand guises, mocking me with their first world availability. It was all there in the open, it was like fossicking in a jeweller’s shop.

Of course, Sydney also had some used bookstores, and I did do the rounds there as well, but they were oh so orderly, books neatly classified into themes and sections. No chance of stumbling upon an unexpected book, only unexpected copies. This curiously lessened my inclination to prowl through the bookstores in Glebe and Newtown, though each visit was still enjoyable. My collection built up pretty quickly. Rather than fossicking for literature, I was looking for natural history books, mainly books on Australian spiders. I’m happy to report that at the end of four years, I eventually managed to find pretty much all the different books on Australian spiders. While the spider books were truly found objects, the other books were all neat and modern, and would have stood out in my old collection in Bangalore, different in their crispness.

And then in Mexico. Being in a spanish speaking country, and a country that loves literature is very frustrating. I found tons of authors I’d never heard of, writing books that seemed to me supremely interesting if only I could approach them. My spanish is still struggling, every page is littered with words that force me to scurry through the dictionary, every sentence is slow to read. I know that I’m merely impatient, the language will come with time, but for a year, my reading has shrunk again. Occasional book orders from Amazon, while they help, are almost beside the point for a book fossicker. There is no element of finding, of seeking: there is only the pointing and clicking and having your wish gratified, and there is definitely no shade of the unexpected find, or the incongruous discovery. In Xalapa, there are a couple of bookstores that have a section (a shelf!) of english books hidden in the far corners (curiously, among the spiders), but really nothing you wouldn’t find in the book exchange shelfs of backpacking places. And this was the situation, till I found the streets with the old books in Mexico City.

I have been going up to Mexico City pretty frequently, but it’s always been for some specific thing or the other, and rarely spent any time being a flâneur. But this time round, I had a few hours to spare, and we were staying downtown in the hotel with the most amazing roof ever, and wandered off looking for a bookshop. At a street intersection, on a whim I asked a guy who was handing out leaflets where I could find some bookstores, and he casually said that there were dozens a few blocks behind the cathedral. And so I found Calle Donceles. The name rang a bell, an internet friend had been to Mexico City a while ago and had written about this street (sadly, the report is offline), and I started walking along the street. No luck. I found a couple of Christian bookstores, not surprising since it was just behind the cathedral, but after an hour of walking I was ready to call off the search. I walked back the same way, and just as I was about to turn back the way I came, I decided to follow the road on the other direction. And then I hit pay dirt. A small section of the street was the books section. Atleast ten old/used bookstores stood clustered around each other, and as soon as I entered one of them, I instantly felt at home. The books were mostly Spanish, but I found entire shelves with books in English. And the books were highly disorganized, with all sorts of titles making unlikely neighbours. The strange thing was I found so many of the same titles that I frequently encountered during my sweeps in Bangalore. I guess at some point all these extremely popular books had dispersed all over the world, dispersed explosively and settled in odd nooks and crannies. Old friends, in familiar editions peeked out of the shelves. I found books, that I would have bought in a heartbeat, if I hadn’t already got them. I spent only two hours among the bookshelves, but the minutes flew by me, the reverie descended, and almost without thinking I added books to the collection already forming. Some were books by favourite authors that I’d never read, and some were entirely new titles, and yes some were even text books that would have cost an arm and a leg first hand. I cannot imagine how much richer this place will be when I finally can read Spanish with fluency, because each cavernous bookstore held so many treasures.

Despite the thrall, I had to rush through the bookshops, making only a sort of reconnaissance, and storing away their locations for later foraging. All the old habits came back to me, the manner of searching, the relaxation that comes despite the awkwardly tilted head, and always that smell, the pervasive smell of the old books. And then, in that small section, a dead end in that labyrinth, among all the yellowing paperbacks, a shelf half hidden by packs of unpacked books, I found a copy of Lawrence Durrell’s Balthazar. With all pages intact. It was like meeting an old friend after many years, and picking up where you left off, and that all the time in between eliminated. The Quartet is complete now.
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Distant Peak

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